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Operating Amateur Radio from a kayak is a real challenge both technically as well as an operationally.
The open water brings not only the usual "/p" concerns of weight, power, antennas, matching, and lightning,
but also the special problems of possible submersion of operator and equipment, the need to be concerned about
the balance of the antenna vis-à-vis the kayak, the effects of splashing, rocking, and wakes from unconcerned
stink-pots, and entry & exit problems for operator and radio.
Even with the extra obstacles, operating from a kayak also offers unique rewards. Being away from rush
and hub-bub of society, the QSOs can be relaxed and unhurried. Audio is usually cleaner and easier to hear (the
FCC rules prohibit music in the background of Amateur transmissions, but how about birdcalls?), except when traversing
rapids. The antenna, if well mounted, is elegant, and a beautiful addition to the appearance of the kayak. And,
the whole setup attracts riveted attention not only to Amateur Radio, but also to kayaking.
Kayaking, of course, is both a whitewater as well as flatwater sport. On flatwater, say, in a secluded
cove or river bend, the sense of serenity and solitude is sublimely soothing. The addition of Amateur equipment
and activity increases the allure, pleasantly blending "right brain" technology with "left brain"
aesthetic (or is it the other way around?).
. . . Kayak or Canoe
Both kayaks and canoes, like everything else, have their individual strengths and weaknesses. Perhaps
for the Amateur Radio operator, the canoe is too heavy, too hard to maneuver, and too unstable, risking unpleasant
operating position, and loss of all equipment upon a flip.
The kayak on the other hand, once the paddler / operator is onboard, is extremely stable. Operating
position is nearly ideal, with equipment easily balanced above the knees and just below deck.
. . . Transport of Kayak & Radios
Here the primary concerns are (1) weight of the kayak (the advent of kevlar-based kayak construction
has largely solved this problem); (2) weight of the Amateur Station, (3) ease of carry, i.e., not too bulky and
capable of carry with only two hand; and (4) waterproofing of the Amateur Station carry case around the dock or
riparian traverse (riverbank).
The kayak and its usually accouterments can be carried with one hand or shoulder, leaving the other
hand or shoulder to carry the Amateur Station, and to counterbalance the kayak. Assuming a kevlar kayak weight
of no more than 20 pounds, paddles, flotation, ropes, rudder, whistle, and sundries are 10 pounds, the Amateur
Station and its case should weigh in at no more than 10 pounds, leaving a total pack weight of around 40 pounds,
within the capabilities of most. Of course, except for portage, this pack would usually be carried only from the
car to the "put-in."
. . . Entry & Exit
Getting in and out of a kayak while handling an Amateur Radio Station is, well, not for the feint at
heart, at least at first. After a while, of course, it becomes second nature, but the first few times are (very
possibly) events to be remembered. There are two basic approaches to take.
The first is when entering from the edge of a ship or dock. Here, handling the Station is easier, but
actually getting yourself into the craft is more challenging.
The problem is, simply stated, that while the operator is entering or exiting from the kayak, the center
of gravity is too high, and the combination of operator and craft is extremely unstable. Thus, the process is really
either a quick and controlled fall into the vessel, or a quick hop & jump out.
Since this is without question the most likely moment for a capsize, obviously the Amateur Station
(except the less valuable fish poles & dipoles) should be left on the dock or vessel, within easy reach of
the Operator after entry.
From the riparian shoreline, things are much easier with the exception that you get your feet wet.
After setting the kayak parallel with the shoreline, put the Amateur Station inside the kayak, between the foot
pedals, so that you can reach it after boarding. It is very difficult to reach equipment stowed behind the seat
in a kayak, and so, everything has to fit in the narrow opening between your knees and the portal. Exit is simply
the reverse, and both entry & exit this way is extremely stable.
. . . Positioning in the Water
I've found that it is best to paddle for a while as soon as you get in the kayak, to remember both
your sea-legs and also to regain your sense of balance and feel for the watercraft. A kayak can tip side to side
a remarkable amount without overturning, but you have to have a sense of "touch" to know the limits.
The basic position, with knees slightly flexed and lower back supported against the inside gunwale,
is astonishingly comfortable. It is easy to stay in a properly fitted and equipped kayak for many enjoyable hours.
The addition of the Amateur Station changes little, except for the weight shift of the equipment from
below deck to above during deployment. And we'll get to that.
Soon, it's time to set up the Amateur Radio Station!
. . . Antenna Deployment
Deploying the aerials is both the most challenging as well as the most fun part. Of course, the variety
in aerials is one of the things that gives our hobby great interest, being fundamentally more art than science.
Let's look at a few favorites.
For Two Meters and above (or is it below?), of course we will probably use flexible J-Poles and Jagis
supported by fiberglass fish poles. The antenna is taped, tied, or wrapped to the appropriate sized collapsible
fish pole, and fed with coax and a simple 1:1 coax loop rf choke balun.
Or, the J-Pole can be directly fed with twinlead, if the length of the twinlead feedline is exactly
a multiple of wavelength compensated for the velocity factor because the antenna's impedance will be exactly reflected
at every wavelength (and half-wavelength) multiple. The fish pole is then set in a screw-mount rod holder along the hatch gunwale. Very
simple, and highly effective.
For directivity, the second fish pole with a lambda + 5% reflector (or a lambda - 10% director) spaced
at approximately 1/10 wavelength from the J-Pole makes a quick and dirty Jagi. Just remember that the parasitic
element will change the antenna's impedance. Closer element spacing will increase gain and front to back ratio,
but will lower impedance and bandwidth. This will require either an adjustment to the feedpoint of the J-Pole or
some very careful fiddling with the feedline length. Use an antenna analyzer onboard on a calm and quiet day to
find these exact dimensions.
The AE3C Jagi uses the two fish poles set upon brackets which are affixed to the deck of the kayak
with double-sided tape. The operator's higher impedance J-Pole (described in detail below) is on one fish pole;
the slightly longer reflectors is on the other fish pole. The two aerials are aligned at the top of the fish poles,
and the two fish poles are tied together at the top at 1/10th lambda (about 8-10 inches), giving the Jagi an overall
arch. Of course, there is a slight misalignment because the J-Pole and the Reflector are not at a uniformly equal
spacing, but the elegance of the combined arches makes for one of the more beautiful Amateur aerials of all.
For Six Meters and lower (or is it higher?), dipoles and loaded dipoles are more than likely our antenna
of choice.
For 6-20 meters, we use carefully tuned dipoles. At 20 meters, a quarter wave leg will be about 16
1/2 feet, and this is the practical maximum for a full sized kayak dipole. Also, collapsible fishing rods in this
length are easy to find, inexpensive, very lightweight, and sturdy.
Over the years, we've all learned that for resonance, efficiency, Q, matching, and "elegance"
(both scientific and aesthetic), little competes with a well engineered and well tuned dipole. These factors make
the dipole the ruler of the skies above and around the kayak.
For 160-30 meters, we have to compromise. We can either use loading coils or a tuner. I'll not enter
this debate too far, other than to say that coils seem to work fine on 30 & 40, but that a tuner and a loop
arrangement might be a better choice for 80 & Top Band. The coils or tuner both add weight, but both in about
the same amount. The loop (Delta Loop configuration) extends from the operator, then out one pole, across to the
other, then back to the Operator.
For 30-40-80-160 Meters, the basic idea is to get as much wire as high as possible, and to feed through
an antenna tuner. Onboard the kayak, this is easier said than done. Traditional techniques such as rocks, slingshots,
string, and trees are out of bounds, because it is much too dangerous for a kayak to be tethered from on high.
In an emergency -- which can occur within an instant on the water -- such a tether can mean severe injury or death.
Two viable alternatives are the Delta loop deployed by the fish poles, and the coiled telephone handset
cord. Patching three 25-foot coils together (one on each fish pole, and the third atop and between -- all connected
together, of course) gives you quite a bit of wire. Tune the best you can; you'll be surprised at the performance.
The configuration of the dipoles depends mostly on wind and water conditions, and can range from an
inline dipole supported above the Operator by a few feet of pvc, to various Ls or Vs (L and V configurations are
still essentially dipoles).
For kayaks equipped with rudders -- most flatwater kayaks are -- another elegant solution is to use
the rudder cables as the horizontal leg of an L-dipole (I resist the use of the term "counterpoise" because
the horizontal leg is an integral part of the antenna just as much as the aerial is; it is not an afterthought).
If you're lucky, your rudder cable will be a usable length. Because the cable is inside the kayak,
it may be possible to lengthen it (in front of the pedals) just by adding a little wire. But remember that the
footpedals & bracket (in front) and the rudder & rudder mount (out back) will act as capacitative plates
or "hats" to the antenna, loading the cable. Use your antenna analyzer, on the water, and experiment
to find whether the natural resonant frequency (or as modified by wire extensions) can be massaged into your desired
band. If not, you may still be able to use the cables with the ATU, but quite frankly it is far more fun to deploy
the fish pole aerials.
And don't forget to add appropriate flags, streamers, and maybe even a call-sign banner to the aerials.
Remember, we are all Ambassadors for our hobby. A kayak equipped with an Amateur Radio Station is an especial attention-getter,
and is a particularly unique opportunity to promote both passions.
Now back to our aerials. Construction of the dipoles is simple and straightforward, using minimalist
materials, i.e., string, fishline, plastic cable ties, pvc, off-the-shelf rod holders, and lightweight stranded
wire. Feedline is coax or measured twinlead, connected directly to the PL-259.
Stow the fish poles collapsed behind your seat. An old trick making reaching the things that are behind
you easier is to tie color-coded string or cord to the items you expect to need. Tie the strings to the poles and
keep them along the outer edge of the seat, trying your best to avoid tangles. Even so, expect difficulty in retrieving
things that are behind you in a kayak.
Extend the fish poles, choose your pre-cut dipoles from separately marked reclosable plastic bags (one
dipole per bag), and attach the legs.
After the fish pole are "baited," affix them to their attachments. You can use fishing rod
holders, plastic flag holders (attached to the deck with double-sided tape), a pvc "tee," or anything
else you can imagine.
Orientation of the dipole legs is largely a matter of artistic skill and personal preference. Be wary
that the rudder cables could convert your HF deployment into an NVIS system. Remember the AE3C saying, "enjoy
and deploy," and if deployed in the presence of an audience -- as will usually be the case -- should be performed
with great aplomb.
. . . Equipment Deployment
Your rig, microphone, key, and cables will all be separately sealed in appropriate-sized waterproof
plastic bags, which themselves are in another waterproof "dry bag." When you pack, leave as much air
as possible in the bags; never squeeze out the air to "save space." The reason for this is that air,
should the kayak capsize, will keep the equipment afloat, maximizing the chances of recovery.
Although excellent for other situations, hard cases are not ideal for /kayak operations (but see below
for a notable exception). The rigid structure cannot be "massaged" into the tight spaces inherent in
the kayak. That, combined with the fact that most (but not all) hard cases either leak or will not float, makes
them undesirable.
Once unwrapped, return the bags to the dry bag, to keep them dry. The rig should be attached just below
the deck, directly in front of the operator, away from the sun and splash, and attached with bungee cords.
An alternative is to hold the rig between your knees, but this is a significant problem if you suddenly
need to paddle away from something; the rig can interfere substantially.
Another alternative is velcro, with the smooth strips glued inside the deck near the operator, and
the rough strips on straps securing the radio from below to the underside of the foredeck. This method favors light
rigs like the FT-817, and is marginal for larger rigs like the SGC-2020.
Use just enough coax or twinlead feedline to reach the feedpoint. The microphone can safely sit in
your lap, and the key can be affixed with double-sided tape to the deck.
. . . Little Playmate as a Case
On occasion, there are alternatives to the kayak. One of the kayak's close relatives is the 'Poke Boat,'
a partially covered canoe with a hull in the shape of a kayak. While being open like a canoe, the craft handles
and looks like a kayak. It is not suitable for whitewater, but in many respects is the ideal vessel for flatwater,
being extremely lightweight, made of kevlar, highly stable, and capable of carrying a payload of almost six hundred
pounds.
In this situation, a waterproof, hard-shell case has a role for housing the Amateur Station. A good
choice is the Playmate cooler, which is readily available, inexpensive, easy to make waterproof with the addition
of a few gaskets made of automotive weatherstripping, and easy to customize inside with plastic shelves and epoxy.
Many QRP rigs fit nearly perfectly, and the FT-817 / Z-11 combination is a perfect fit, leaving just
enough room for key, mic, dipoles, and wires.
The Poke Boat is sufficiently stable and reliable that it is easy to establish a comfort level allowing
the use of the Playmate-cased Amateur Station.
. . . Power Considerations
This is a broad subject, but begin with the obvious. Use the lightest battery for your needs. The FT-817
has sufficient internal power for a few hours of kayak operations, but will need more power for a whole day. For
a multi-day expedition, a recharging system either overnight or while in the sun is a must. While solar cells can
certainly be attached to the kayak deck, and batteries can be rotated, we are now at the very fringe of what a
solar powered kayak recharging station can accomplish.
. . . Antenna Tuning & Matching
Here is another area that gives Amateurs both endless pleasure and challenge: matching and tuning the
aerial. For our J-Poles, Jagis, and dipoles, we can spend endless hours tuning them and matching impedance. Since
we will by design be operating QRP, every bit of effort which coaxes a few more milliwatts out from the antenna
matters.
Tuning the J-Pole, Jagi, and dipoles should be performed onboard the kayak. Choose a day when you are
not stressed or pressured, and paddle away from shore. Find a location typical of where you plan to operate, and
wait for calm seas and conditions. While everything can be accomplished simply by tuning for noise, then tweaking
for vswr, a good quality antenna analyzer makes the chore at least seem more scientific, even though we all know
it is more experience and craftsmanship.
Use the AE3C approach, which is summed up in the expression "tuning is pruning, and matching is
patching." J-Poles are tricky, especially without a choke, because the feedline affects both tuning and impedance.
Jagis vary impedance wildly with element spacing (closer spacing increases gain & front to back ratio, and
lowers impedance & bandwidth), and the feed point impedance increases as you move away from then shorted end.
Think of the J-Pole as a half wave radiator matched with a quarter wave section and fed by tap near
a shorting stub. To obtain a good impedance match with twinlead, the feedpoint should be about 1.25 to 1.50 inches
from the short; the quarter wave parallel matching section should be about 0.22 wavelength (accounting for the
"k" factor at about 0.975), bringing the total length of the aerial to about 0.73 wavelength. This translates
to these dimensions:
Stub Quarter Wave Parallel Match Half Wave Radiator
______()_____________
|______()_____________________________
|-1.40"-|-17.57"-------|
|-------------------55.77"------------|
When adding a director or reflector to the J-Pole, creating a Jagi, since the parasitic elements lower
the impedance, we will need a second J-Pole fed slightly farther away from the stub, say 1.85 to 2.20 inches, raising
the impedance of the J-Pole and thereby matching the Jagi to 40-50 ohms. And remember, J-Poles and Jagis require
a 1:1 coax loop rf choke balun (e.g., four turns of RG-58U coax in a four inch diameter - not critical) to prevent
the feedline from acting as part of the antenna. This choke, if properly designed, can serve double duty as a beverage
holder, faux fishing reel, or as a steamer attachment point. Be patient, and enjoy the challenge!
Dipoles and their variants (Vs & Ls) are much more straightforward. A few basic principle to keep
in mind are:
* To raise the impedance of a resonant dipole, either in a linear configuration or non-linear such as Vs &
Ls, move the feedpoint slightly off-center.
* Remember that wire antennas should be cut slightly longer than rod or tubular elements.
* Wire antennas will have, in general, slightly higher impedance, higher Q and lower bandwidth than rod or tubular
elements.
. . . Operating
A well-designed Ham Shack considers several factors, such as grounding, lightning protection, equipment
layout & access, a precise timepiece, prefix lists, gridsquare & azimuthal projection vector maps, deskspace
for logs, and operator ergonomics.
The same factors should be a consideration in design and deploy of any Amateur field or "/p"
(portable) Station. For a typical Field Day setup, grounding and lightning protection are of primary concern, and
the same is certainly true for "/kayak" operations, and the technique is very simple. Should the possibility
of lightning appear -- however remote -- then "ground" the watercraft without hesitation or delay. And
by this, I mean get out of the kayak and onto the ground, and fast Lightning and kayaks have a strong mutual attraction,
and a kayak with aerials is just about irresistible to lightning, with deadly and tragic results. Do not use a
kayak when the possibility of lightning exists.
Other than that, there is no practical way to ground a kayak; we skirt the resultant noise and static
problems by operating while still or while drifting. Movement by the kayak through the water produces a surprising
amount of static, and the traditional approach of trying to match the non-metallic kayak to ground by dragging
a trailing wire behind (actually creating little more than a resistive load drawing off precious rf) is just too
dangerous; should the drag line get caught on a log or on anything, this could mean an instant capsize for the
kayak.
More can be done about equipment layout. Safety demands that the paddler / operator at all times have
instant access to the paddle and footpedals, so the Amateur Station should be placed where it will not impede emergency
operations of the kayak.
Items are traditionally secured the deck of the kayak by small metal eyelets glued or epoxied to the
surface to which are then attached elastic cords, which in turn hold gear such as emergency paddles, maps, and
other ready access items.
The elastic cords are perfect for securing the Amateur Station. In an automobile, it is unthinkable
to use bungee cords to hold ham radio equipment, because in an accident, the cords will likely break, allowing
the ham equipment to become a potentially deadly projectile. In the kayak, no such thing seems possible.
With the rig secured by elastic, and the key taped onto the deck, a small lcd clock can be held into
position with velcro (soft strip on the kayak), and the papers, in map cases, can be held on deck with more elastic.
. . . Logging
Logging is hard enough at the shack, especially during contesting or interesting QSOs. At the shack,
about the worst thing that can happen, other than not having log paper, is a coffee spill or the pencil rolling
off the table and onto the floor.
Many more dangers await the logging kayaker. Stinkpot wakes and waves loom wetter than a few drops
of coffee, and that pencil will roll into anachreon. Kayak logging requires determination and perseverance.
Pencil and paper works, of course, but expect the log to get wet and to smear. One solution is a waterproof
pen along with waterproof paper such as you might find in the police supplies catalogs. When back home, of course
you will have to transfer the temporary portable entries into your permanent log.
PDA and computer logging are probably out for obvious reasons, so another alternative is digital audio
logging. The small digital audio sticks are inexpensive, easy to use, lightweight, and have sufficient capacity.
Just be sure to attach the recorder to a flotation device (floating keyrings are ideal).
. . . Switching Bands
At the shack, switching bands is as easy as switching the rig, turning the antenna selector, and retuning
the antenna, when using an ATU.
Aboard the kayak, the maneuver is more akin to executing a tac on a sailboat, requiring speed, skill,
and coordination.
Switching the rig is little different, and retuning the ATU is about the same, but changing aerials
is a whole different matter.
There are several strategies, which break into to camps: (1) switching resonant antenna; and (2) mutiband
resonant antennas, and (3) ATUs.
By clever usage of fishline swivels (with included clips), carefully measured wires, and clean alligator
clips, resonant antennas can be quickly changed on the fish poles. For the shorter wavelength bands, nylon line
can be used to extend the aerial to the end of the fish pole so that the feedpoint is accessible near the base
of the pole.
. . . Digital Modes
Despite its impracticality for /kayak operation (i.e., a laptop computer
is required), some of the digital modes at least deserve mention. Although presently requiring a sound card interface,
the two weak signal digital modes, JT44 & PSK31, may soon become viable should the Palm system begin to support
standard sound card protocols.
JT44, with its ability for its 44 tones to be readability even though inaudible, is especially interesting.
Of course, JT44 also requires precise time coordination. As more and more operators discover this mode, pingjockey
will become less and less crucial.
With the advent of Simon Brown's "Commander" software, PSK31 has become a staple of QRP ops.
The system still, however, requires a Windows based operating system, a serial interface, and an isolated audio
connection. All of this is nearly within reach of the palm devices, though not yet a reality.
. . . Ergonomics
We all know that operating an Amateur Radio Station, like surfing the 'net, can be extremely absorbing.
Without even realizing it, we may suddenly realize that we've been operating for hours. Ergonomics for that reason
is a crucial consideration for the ham shack, to avoid repetitive motion stress injuries.
In the kayak, with drastically less room and radically restricted movement, ergonomic strategy in operator
and equipment position is even more important.
The two chief problems are feet & legs and hands & wrists. Because the knees are used to brace
the kayaker, the sitting position involves the feet being on the footpedals (or footbraces), the knees flexed,
and the outer knee pressed for support against the inner wall of the kayak. This makes for an excellent and balanced
position for paddling, but can quickly become uncomfortable while operating the Amateur Station. one solution is
to shift the feet against the footpedal alternating from the ball of the foot to the heel, and back. Another is
alternately to bend the knee, one at a time then the other, so that it is outside the cockpit, and next to the
arm.
But far more important is the wrist, which is used for tuning (a repetitive motion), cw (also repetitive),
and scanning (extremely repetitive). Here we can take a lesson from the pianist, who will remind us that by "bridging"
the wrist, meaning that we maintain an inward arch (arch toward the palm), we can avoid repetitive motion stress
injuries. A major cause of this injury is arching the wrist outward (arch away from the palm) instead.
Aboard the kayak, we must rest our arm so that the wrist is properly arched at all times. This means
that the key and tuning knobs must be carefully positioned to effect this bridge, and that the forearm must upon
something (the kayak deck) in such a way as to preserve the bridge.
. . . Ship-to-Shore Communications
Although kayaking is an individual sport, rarely does the kayaker travel alone. On flatwater, a companion
vessel (often a canoe carrying the heavier gear) is common. For lake expeditions, friends and family can oft' be
found at a basecamp, with captainship of the kayak shared. And for whitewater, a chase car is essential for dropping
of the kayak at the put in point, and retrieving vessel and paddler miles downstream at the take out.
So there are many emergency and non-emergency uses for ship-to-shore and ship-to-ship communications.
Amateur Radio has an important role to play.
For ship-to-ship QSOs, old fashioned AAA-mode -- analog airwave audio (yelling) -- requires no license,
has sufficient range and readability for most routine communications, and can handle close-range routine traffic
on universally available ship-to-shore frequencies.
Slightly greater range can be achieved using LRO-mode -- light-band reflective oscillators (hand &
arm waving) -- but the extended range comes with the costs of lower readability and the fact that there is no common
mode standard for signal encoding. One person's "come back in, it's my turn" transmission is often interpreted
by an eager receiving operator as "it's ok for you to go out even farther, I'll just stay here and keep waiting."
Radio can help here. Although our focus is on Amateur Radio, several other services can be quite helpful.
FRS (Family Radio Service) is a short range UHF band nearly ideally suited for this, because the equipment is inexpensive,
frequently waterproof, and fairly reliable.
Amateur Radio operators can also use marine VHF equipment, which has evolved to have nearly every feature
a boater could want, including being well-designed, easy to operate, waterproof, relatively inexpensive, and easy
to operate. The "Maritime Mobile Service, VHF Radiotelephone Band" (under FCC regulations) is license-free
(for US domestic operations), operates in the156-162 MHz, but is available only for ship-to-ship operational communications.
Marine VHF is a must anytime the kayaker will enter the so-called "navigable waterways,"
or whenever an 'over the horizon' (shoreline not visible) expedition is planned. Remember, VHF channel usage is
highly regulated.
But of course our favorite will be our Amateur HTs, assuming there is another Amateur operator in your
party.
. . . Stowing Temporarily
On many occasions, we will need to stow the Amateur Station quickly and securely. Emergencies and dangerous
situations develop incredibly rapidly on the water, and the operator must deal with the situation or potential
situation "swiftly and severely." Part of this response will be to stow the Station as quickly as possible,
to enable whatever maneuvering may be required.
The operator should have several strategies or contingencies thought out and practiced beforehand,
as a measured response.
For example, a simple response might be simply needing to effect a few paddle strokes to avoid an object
or to orient the kayak to an oncoming wake. Here, there is no need to stow the whole Station and Aerial; instead
we would just stow the mic or key, and protect the rig from splash.
If we need to paddle a little farther, in response to wind, strong current, or just to relocate around
the bend, we might stow the rig but not the aerial. If we need to traverse low hanging branches, we might need
to stow the aerials but not the rig. And if we're ready to move across the lake, we might stow the whole Station.
A temporary stow might be as simple as putting the stowed gear in waterproof bags (remember, leave
the air in).
Like anything else, practice, practice, practice.
. . . Stowing After Operations are Complete
All good things come to an end, and when the batteries are spent and the log pages are full, it's time
to go home. Our objectives are to pack the equipment so that it is waterproof and will float, so of course we duplicate
the packing we had when we entered the kayak.
The objectives here are clear, that is, to be sure that the station is (1) all packed, with nothing
left on deck or loose inside, (2) waterproof, (3) intended to float if capsized, packed with lots of air, and (4)
easily transported from craft to shore, ideally with one hand.
The best advice I can give you is to keep a detailed checklist of your equipment, including where and
how it should be stowed. Print this on heavy paper or cardstock, and have it laminated, so that the water will
not spoil the writing.
. . . Exit Issues
Exiting the kayak is usually the saddest part of the day, because it means that your temporary escape
is over, and that the real world is just around the corner. Also, you're tired, and there's still a lot of work
to be done, portage, packing, and hauling. So be most careful, this is when you're most likely to make a mistake.
When exiting to a dock or vessel, first secure the kayak with a dock line. Then, place the paddle off-board,
but within easy reach. Next, offload the Amateur Station, and finally, extract the operator. Assistance is rarely
needed (except for the first few times).
A riparian exit is slightly different. Come about parallel with the shoreline, and jig the kayak into
the riverbed. Holding the dock line, bring your knees up to your chest, put one foot into the shoreline side of
the boat, and step out quickly. Secure the dock line, and put the Amateur Station onto the shore.
In either case, pick up vessel and Station, and return triumphantly to your base camp.
. . . Back at Home
By the time you get home, not only are you tired, relaxed, and sunburned, but also your Amateur Station
is damp, tangled, and sandy. Although you want to sleep, now is a very good time to tend to the Station, if only
for a few minutes. Unpack everything, dry off whatever is wet, wipe away the sand, and untangle the wires. A common
shaving brush is excellent for removing dirt, debris, dust, and smudges. Then, be sure to recharge the batteries,
which do not take kindly to being stored discharged.
After the Station is cleaned, dried, and untangled, and maybe while transferring the log entries to
your logbook, now is a good time to think about how the Station could be improved. What went wrong earlier, if
anything, and what could be done just a little bit better? What equipment did you need but not have? What did you
have but not need? Any updates for your laminated checklist? Any improvements to the aerials.
Amateur Radio and kayaking do very well together. Feel free to contact me with comments or questions.
And call me on 17 meters, preferably while on the water.
Appendix -1- MEL - Minimum Equipment List
. . . Kayak -- MEL
Fiberglass Pole #1 (vertical)
Fiberglass Pole #2 (horizontal)
Flag Bracket #1
Flag Bracket #2
PVC Tee
Rod Holders/Brackets
Tape
Double-sided tape
String / Cord
Bungee Cords
Coax (center-stranded RG-8)
Pre-tuned Dipoles (10-12-15-17-20M)
J-Pole (Standard)
J-Pole (High Impedance for Jagi)
Jagi Parasitic Element
J-Pole / Jagi coax rf choke balun
J-Pole Coaxial or Twinlead Feedline
Streamers/Flags
Cable Tie (Center Insulator)
Telephone Handset Coiled Wire (3)
Telephone Handset Couplers (2)
Rig
Microphone / Cable
Key / Cable
Rig External Power / Cable
ATU
ATU - Rig Cable
ATU External Power / Cable
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